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The button-down collar is one of the cooler pieces of the menswear history puzzle as it’s path is clear and unquestionable – none of this ‘may have been invented sometime during the middle ages somewhere near or around Europe’ and whatnot.
Just as the look itself is firmly and unmistakably cemented in the men’s style lexicon, the origins are just as clear and iconic.
The button-down collar was originally called a ‘polo collar’ and was worn pretty exclusively by – yes, you guessed it – polo players (largely in England in the late 19th century).
While most men’s collars at the time were not fastened at the point with buttons, polo players found the non-fastened style to be cumbersome as it would flap in their faces while riding. At first, the button was merely a homemade remedy as polo players attached them to keep their collars out of their way.
| CLASSICALLY STYLED | J.Crew blazer, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece button-down shirt | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Rob McIver Photo
Believe it or not, it was Brooks Brothers very own John Brooks who took note of this style maneuver and began offering button-down shirts to the general public in the family stores. In fact, Brooks Brothers button-down shirts still say ‘The Original Polo Shirt’ on the label today.
The Brooks Brothers influence landed the button-down collar solidly in the day-to-day rotation of men’s attire, but the look really became a distinct fashion move when the Italians (who else, right?) adopted it in the mid-1900s.
Specifically, style legend Gianni Agnelli was known for incorporating the button-down shirt into his personal uniform, opting to wear his unfastened for a look of instantly recognizable sprezzatura.
Today, button-down shirts are everywhere, from ill-fitting Men’s Warehouse business packs to tried-and-true prep classics from Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers, to modern fashion labels from Band of Outsiders to Mark McNairy to Thom Browne and many, many more.
Here’s some outfit inspiration from the HSS Style Guide, featuring button-down shirts of various types styled for a variety of situations – from dressed up to casual – and seasons.
1. Casual Business Traveler
2. Everyday Office Attire
3. Funked Up Suit
4. Coffee Date
5. Casual Weekend Layering
6. Rolled Up Summer Dapper
Thanks for reading.
Stylishly Yours,
Adam Lehman
He Spoke Style
Menswear history buff? Read more of our Style Defined series and explore the Glossary.
