A mix of classic sophistication with a modern sensibility cut from Dormeuil Tonik
Prior to our wedding, I was informed by now Mrs. Sacawa, that all images of my tuxedo and dinner jacket were under embargo. (Yes, dear…) However, since the wedding was yesterday, I am now free to release the doves. I’ll certainly be posting photos from the actual wedding soon as well, but I first wanted to share these shots from my final tuxedo fitting at Michael Andrews Bespoke in NYC, as well as some details about the tuxedo itself.
I have always characterized my personal style as classic with a modern sensibility and I wanted my wedding tuxedo to align with that. Something that would be incredibly special for an incredibly special day, but also one that I could wear for many, many years to come. So without further ado, let’s talk details.
The Cloth. For an ultra-classic tuxedo, there is only one cloth to choose. And that is Dormeuil Tonik. Old school glamor and luxury at its finest. The cloth I picked was 90-percent mohair (that comes from a mohair goat, not a sheep) and 10-percent worsted wool. Cory, MAB’s VP of Operations, likes to joke that he feels like a used car salesman when talking about mohair with clients since “it does everything!” Not only does it have the body regulating properties of wool so that you’re cool in summer and warmer in winter, but it’s also flame retardant–yes, you heard that right, flame retardant–which is good to know in case the wedding reception gets a little out of hand.
Mohair is known as the “diamond fiber” for it’s scaled appearance of the fibers under the microscope and I can tell you that Tonik has a very distinct feel, both in the hand and on the body. It’s coarse and appears subtly textured. When you’re wearing it, it feels like you’ve had wax poured over you, in the very best sense of the metaphor. It’s like a suit of armor that somehow has an incredible drape and allows great freedom of movement. Hard to put into words–you kind of need to feel it for yourself.
The Jacket. Classic sophistication with a few contemporary leanings. As I already have a single-breasted tuxedo in my closet, I chose to go with a double-breasted version. It was something I didn’t already have and, for me, it was just that much more special. I opted for a 4×2 double-breasted jacket, full canvas, of course, with dramatic 4.5″ grosgrain peaked lapels, double vent (an intentional departure from what is considered “classic”, “proper” or “right”, depending on your point of view) and lined with a subtle black paisley silk lining.
The shoulder is roped and was deliberately given more structure as my tastes have continued to evolve in this area. Plus, in terms of formalwear, more structure is generally a good rule to follow anyway. Pockets are jetted with grosgrain trim, button facing is grosgrain (four on the sleeve), however, I chose to make the breast pocket self-facing as I did not like how it would have competed with the lapels and obstructed the line were it also in grosgrain.
One interesting flourish you will note is the cuff. Rather than a plain cuff, I chose a gauntlet (or turnback) cuff. This choice was as much a nod to one of my earliest sartorial heroes, James Bond, as it was another detail that would make this a very special tuxedo. Just one tidbit about Bond and the gauntlet cuff: in Dr. No, which was the very first Bond film, before we even see Bond’s face and hear him speak the iconic words, “Bond, James Bond”, we see the silk gauntlet cuffs of his tuxedo jacket.
The Trousers. Again, a mix of classic and contemporary. Plain bottom with a grosgrain stripe. Suspender buttons inside. The waistband has a hook-and-eye closure, which fastens near my hip bone and extends up two inches. Rather than a plain front, I decided to do a single pleat. For me, it was an elegant touch that felt like a sartorial arrival of sorts.
So there it is! I have to say that this tuxedo turned out perfectly, both in terms of details and in terms of fit. No surprise there as Mike and Cory have been making clothing for me for some time now.
I do want to offer the deepest gratitude and heartfelt thanks to Mike, Cory, David, Fraiser, Tony, Charles and the rest of the MAB crew for their years of friendship and partnership. These guys truly know what’s up and get it done with the utmost style and class.
Thanks for reading. Looking forward to sharing the wedding photos!
He Spoke Style